California: Highway 1 North - The Drive I’d Do Again
- Jul 23
- 8 min read
Updated: Aug 5
From Hearst Castle and Big Sur to Carmel-by-the-Sea, my favorite stops along California’s iconic Highway 1.
My scenic drive up the California coast took an unexpected turn when I learned a 50-mile stretch of Highway 1’s view was obstructed by the Vandenberg Space Force Station.
Instead, I pulled up Spotify, found a Mountain Road Trip playlist ( yes, that’s actually a thing), and headed inland through the Santa Ynez Mountains.
Sometimes the best part of a road trip isn’t what you planned - it’s the turn you almost didn’t make.
That winding road led me to Cold Spring Tavern, a former stagecoach stop that has been welcoming hungry travelers since the 1800s. Tucked beneath towering oak trees, it feels like you’ve wandered into the set of an old Western.
Cold Spring Stage Stop Tavern Santa Barbara Cold Spring Tavern
I arrive just after noon, and there was already a line out the door - a good sign. The famous tri-tip sandwich, served with homemade apple horseradish sauce, absolutely lived up to the hype. Paired with a cold beer, it was the perfect mountain lunch.
Tritip Sandwich Cold Spring Tavern Trasures n Trash Cold Spring Tavern
The worn wood floors, antique furnishings, and decades of history were something my boys would have absolutely loved.
The Madonna Inn in San Louie Obispo had been recommended to me as a “you’ve got to see this place”.
My interest was piqued.
Madonna Inn Madonna Inn
The lush gardens are set against a stone facade with a roofline that resembles an alpine lodge.
What could be so unique about this place?
Once I stepped in the front door, I felt like I had walked into the Barbie Dreamhouse. Known as ‘The Pink Palace,’ it sits on over 1000 acres- Barbie married well.
The over-the-top pink decor and whimsical theme were worth the detour. Apparently the men’s waterfall urinal is one of the hotel’s biggest attractions, but I chickened out on walking in for a peek.
Very pink dining room Madonna Inn Womens bathroom Madonna Inn
Coming down from the Santa Ynez Mountains dropped me into Morro Bay, where a giant volcano plug loomed in the distance. Wrapped in coastal fog, Morro Rock looked almost volcanic enough to belong in Hawaii.
Morro Bay California Morro Rock Morro Bay
Morro Rock formed 23 million years ago and is the most famous of a chain of nine volcanic peaks called the Nine Sisters that run from San Loui Obispo to Morro Bay.
The Brown Butter Cookie company was not on my immediate radar, but in between Morro Bay and Cambria, Cayucos suddenly appeared on the road sign - 3 miles ahead - so I opted for another detour.
Cayucos is a tiny but adorable one-street town with a relaxed flip-flop surfer beach vibe, with western-style storefronts, antique shops, and local restaurants. I was greeted at the cookie shop by a friendly girl offering samples. Just one little taste and I was an instant fan.
Cayucos California Brown Butter Cookie Company
I had a one-night stay booked at the Cambria Beach Resort described as “surf side chic” and located directly across the street from Moonstone Beach. The fog had rolled in, and temperatures had dropped. I couldn’t wait to put on my walking shoes and hit the boardwalk that runs along the beach before dinner at Black Cat- a farm-to-table bistro in town.
Touring Hearst Castle had been on my bucket list since graduate school—long before social media, Pinterest boards, or travel blogs were a thing.
I devoted nearly four hours to exploring William Randolph Hearst's extraordinary hilltop estate, and honestly, it deserves far more than a few paragraphs tucked into a road trip story.
Rather than rush through one of California's most remarkable landmarks, I'm giving it a post of its own. If Hearst Castle is on your list too, stay tuned—that guide is coming next.
Tracey at a fountain at Hearst Castle Roman Pool Hearst Castle
A short drive from the castle is The Elephant Seal Vista. Judging from the parking lot, these 8,000-pound seals were in residence.
I was not disappointed.
Several herds were lined up like sunbathers claiming their spots along the beach. They were fascinating to watch with their lumbering movements, crawling across the sand, then appearing to collapse.
Carrying around 8000 pounds looked absolutely exhausting. I could have stayed all day watching them play, toss sand over themselves, then pass out. Adorable.
elephant seals in Cambria Sun bathers Cambria
The northern drive was everything the magazines, the movies, and Instagram posts had advertised. Spectacular.
Once I hit Big Sur, the terrain became ruggedly beautiful with soaring Coast Redwoods lining both sides of the one-lane road. There are no stoplights nor much cell service in what has long been a retreat for artists and writers.
Rounding a corner, the famous Bixby Bridge came into view. If time and parking permit, stopping at McWay Falls and Pfeiffer Beach is highly recommended.
Coastal drive Highway 1 North California Bixby Bridge and a big traffic line
However, the traffic in NoCal was noticeably heavier, with masses of cars pulled off at vista points, making it difficult to find parking spots to take photos or enjoy the view. It would appear we all wanted the same photo. I finally understood why people call this one of the world’s great drives - even if I had to share it with what felt like half of California.
It’s easy to underestimate how majestic the Pacific Ocean is until you have experienced it from this vantage point. Steep, dizzying ocean cliffs plunge straight into the Pacific.
I was awestruck.
That ain’t easy.
The corkscrew turns forced cars to crawl up the monstrous mountain, and portions of the highway narrowed into one lane, forcing longer stretches of crawling traffic. After the semi-quiet crowds I had enjoyed the last couple of days, the masses of people came as a shock.
Apparently this was summer in NoCal.
The three-plus-hour road trip landed me in Carmel-by-the-Sea by late afternoon.
Carmel has steep, hilly streets, so parking was a scary experience for me. Street Signs stated: CRAMP WHEELS TO CURB - Huh?
I arrived at the Vagabond House Inn in time for complimentary wine and cheese by the fire pit. Thankfully, I got my timing right this time.
Vagabond House Inn Boutique Hotel Carmel Vagabond House Inn courtyard
I asked the manager for a couple of walkable dinner recommendations.
I had made zero reservations. When I pulled into town and saw how crazy busy it was, I had a brief ‘uh-oh moment’ but instantly switched to ‘no no, this is all part of traveling. Just go with it.’ There’s always a pizza place somewhere.
Luckily, the hotel manager had several suggestions. He mentioned a cozy Irish Pub called Brophys and claimed they had the best fish and chips around, and it happened to be across the street.
After a four-hour tour at Hearst Castle and a congested but stunning 3.5-hour drive, easy was right up my alley. FIFA, Wimbledon, and The Genesis Scottish Open were all playing on the TVs when I walked in, so I saddled up to the bar, ordered the fish and chips, a glass of Chardonnay, and got my fill of some exciting sporting events. Happily, the halibut fish and chips lived up to its reputation.
It was still early, so I strolled down Ocean Blvd to Carmel Beach. It was a beautiful night, and families were packing up for the day. The white powder-like sandy beach lined with cypress trees made me realize why Carmel-by-the-Sea was a top travel destination.
Upon arrival at The Vagabond Inn Hotel, I was asked to select my breakfast options and delivery time to my room. At promptly 8:30 am the next morning, a knock on my door was the breakfast tray. Everything looked simple but fresh and delicious, and I enjoyed it while sitting in front of my room fireplace. Too cool.
The day was unplanned, so I allowed it to unfold as it may. Exploring the main and the side streets gave me a taste of how special Carmel is with fairy-tale cottages and artistic roots dating back to the 1960s.
Carmel Cottage Downtown Carmel Alleyway in Carmel
Fun Facts:
Carmel has a law dating back to 1963 that requires a permit to wear heels over 2 inches to protect pedestrians from tripping over tree roots.
They have no street addresses, so houses have names instead of numbers.
The famous actor Clint Eastwood served as mayor for several years. He chose to film Play Misty For Me there to showcase his hometown. Love that movie. Creepy at its finest.
After a morning of wandering the storybook streets, I discovered the Treehouse Cafe rooftop restaurant. I lucked out in the crowded lunch crowd with a table and chose the gyro appetizer and a glass of rosé. It was a charming spot to sit and take in the sunshine.
Walking back to my hotel, my goal was to find an interesting place for dinner.
Not something on Ocean Blvd with the lines and crowds - no matter the reviews. I stumbled upon The Pocket on Lincoln Blvd. OpenTable had no reservations, so I walked in to inquire. They took my reservation for the evening, so I headed back to the hotel to pack, have some complimentary wine, and take advantage of the vessel tub in my room before dinner.
Turns out The Pocket restaurant is a coveted reservation. No wonder OpenTable showed no availability.
Sometimes walking in and simply asking still beats every reservation app.
With an elegant indoor decor and lively outdoor patio, the California-European curated menu held too many delicious choices. To start, I settled on a grilled little gem salad with avocado and a creamy dill dressing. What made it a stand-out were the crispy capers. That is on the top of my to-make list when I get home. Since I wasn’t overly hungry, I selected another appetizer - pan-seared scallops in sweet potato puree, black garlic caramel, garlic chips, topped with pickled mustard seeds. Whew, that’s a mouthful.
The Pocket Restaurant Carmel Pan Seared scallops at The Pocket Carmel Dessert at The Pocket
The waiter convinced me to try their dessert. He suggested what he called ‘a little petit four platter’. Well sir, if this is what you call little… The two tables on either side of me shared in the amusement. I offered to give either table half, however they declined. I boxed 4 beautiful little cakes up and took them back to my hotel, where the night manager said her mother would love them! That gave me joy to share such a wonderful experience.
It was the perfect meal to end my time in Carmel - but California wasn’t quite finished with me yet.
My final morning had only one commitment: return the rental car at San Francisco Airport by 4:30. Everything in between was mine to discover.
Before leaving the Monterey Peninsula, I couldn't resist driving the famous 17-Mile Drive through Pebble Beach. The $12.50 entrance fee even came with a souvenir map, which somehow made it feel like I'd been admitted into a very exclusive neighborhood.
Immaculate homes overlooked the Pacific while golfers teed off on legendary fairways wrapped in the familiar morning fog. Cyclists pedaled past, dogs walked happily beside their owners, and everything seemed to move at a slower, quieter pace.
At Bird Rock, the soundtrack changed completely. Brown pelicans glided overhead while sea lions barked from the rocks below, carrying across the water louder than I expected. I lingered longer than planned, simply watching nature put on its own morning show.
My original plan was to follow Highway 1 all the way to Half Moon Bay, but Google Maps apparently understands me better than I understand myself. I selected "avoid highways," rolled down the windows, turned up another road-trip playlist (because of course I did), and headed wherever the back roads wanted to take me.
Miles of strawberry and artichoke fields stretched nearly to the Pacific, roadside farm stands appeared around unexpected corners, and the scent of salt air mixed with eucalyptus drifted through the open windows. The route wandered through small coastal towns before reaching Santa Cruz and finally Half Moon Bay.
Since the airport was less than thirty minutes away, there was no reason to rush. I found a tiny wine and cheese shop, enjoyed a tasting—responsibly, of course—and spent a few lazy hours wandering Half Moon Bay one last time before heading to the airport.
Sometimes the best way to end a road trip isn't with one final attraction. It's simply allowing yourself nowhere to be for a little while.
California gave me everything I’d hoped for - and plenty I never expected.
There were iconic landmarks, spectacular coastal drives, unforgettable meals, quirky roadside discoveries, and enough unexpected detours to remind me that the best travel stories rarely come from sticking to the original plan.
If there’s one thing this journey reinforced, it’s my favorite way to travel: stay curious, wander thoughtfully, and always leave room for the unexpected. I’d do this drive again in a heartbeat.
Some trips fill your camera roll. Others quietly fill something much bigger. California was one of those.
See you somewhere delicious.
Stamped by Tracey
Next stop: inside Hearst Castle.
