Portugal: Walking the Camino from Porto to Santiago
- Sep 28, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 28
Seven days, two countries, sixteen women, countless steps—and a lifetime of memories.
Following the Shells — Beginning the Camino in Portugal
In late April 2025, I set out on an adventure that was equal parts spiritual, physical, and culinary. My destination? A portion of the famed Camino Trail. Our journey would begin in Porto, Portugal, and, step by step, wind its way across the border into Spain, ending in the historic city of Santiago de Compostela.
On paper, it sounded straightforward—walk 7 to 10 miles per day, stay in beautiful inns, and soak up the scenery.
In reality, it was so much more.
Looking back, I realize just how adventurous this was. A decade earlier, I had climbed Machu Picchu, so I thought I knew what I was signing up for.
Spoiler: I didn’t.
But isn’t that the beauty of travel? You can prepare, pack, plan, and train, yet there’s always an element of surprise—something that sneaks in and makes the journey your own.
This trip came about through a conversation with my cousin. We were both navigating losses in our lives and searching for something restorative—something that would strengthen us and remind us of the joy in moving forward.
When she suggested we walk the Camino together, it just felt right.
We joined a group of fifteen other women organized by the incredible Amy Quinn of Spirit Road Travel, with the on-the-ground expertise of Backroads Travel. Three of the women were traveling solo; the rest were pairs of long-time best friends.
From the very beginning, I knew this wasn’t going to be just another trip. It was going to be a pilgrimage in every sense of the word.
Getting There: The First Hiccup
Does any trip ever start smoothly? Travel these days feels like its own endurance test.
My cousin and I were supposed to meet in Newark before flying on to Portugal. I landed without issue, but she wasn’t so lucky. Newark’s main runway was under renovation, air traffic controllers were staging walk-offs, and flights were dropping like dominoes. Her flight was flat-out canceled, leaving her scrambling to rebook for the next day.
And so, I began my Camino solo.
Vila Nova de Gaia: Easing In
Our first two nights were set at the dreamy Vinha Boutique Hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia.
After the overnight flight, it was the perfect place to adjust to the time change and ease into the rhythm of the trip. I wasted no time indulging in the spa, booking a massage that erased any airplane aches.
Dinner that night was at Vinha Restaurant, led by Michelin-starred chef Henrique Sá Pessoa.
The meal was a revelation. I began with Texturas de Couve-flor, a cauliflower tower that was as beautiful as it was delicious, followed by wild sea bass.
In true Michelin fashion, a parade of delicate amuse-bouches appeared before the courses, each one a tiny work of art.
It was the kind of dinner that makes you close your eyes with each bite. My only regret was that my cousin was missing it.
By the time dessert came, I was blissfully full and ready to surrender to bed.
My cousin arrived the following morning, and we wasted no time catching up. The hotel arranged a boat across the Douro River to Porto, where we joined a small group for a walking food tour.
Boat ride into the town of Porto Portugal Porto Harbor Historic Porto Portugal
Our first stop was at a bakery for pastel de nata, the legendary Portuguese custard tart. Flaky crust, creamy filling, dusted with cinnamon—one bite and I was hooked. (Confession: I could have stayed there all day happily eating more.)
At the Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s historic covered market, we sampled oysters, mussels, and even canned sardines and cod—so much fresher and more flavorful than the canned fish at home.
Naturally, all of this was washed down with crisp glasses of Vinho Verde.
Mercado do Bolhao Porto Vino Verde Majestic Cafe Porto Portugal Pastel de nata Food guided tour Porto
By the time we returned to the hotel spa for the water circuit, we were happily stuffed and ready for the evening’s welcome cocktails with the rest of the group.
Tomorrow, the walking would begin.
Ponte de Lima
We kicked off our Camino in Ponte de Lima, Portugal’s oldest village, beginning on an easy stretch of the 17th stage of the Caminho Português, one of the historic pilgrimage routes that begins in Lisbon.
The path wound gently through farmland, vineyards, and picture-perfect villages, each one a postcard of northern Portugal.
Our guides, Christian and Cesar, reminded us of the golden rule: when in doubt, follow the scallop shell. These little markers, the symbol of St. James, dot the Camino paths and point pilgrims in the right direction.
Camino shell trail markers Tracey and Cousin Deb starting the trail walking Backroads Travel Guide Christian
We had all been given pilgrim passports.
The tradition of filling these booklets with stamps along the Camino dates back centuries. Each stamp design is unique, marking not just the distance but the soul of the place—churches, cafés, bakeries, even the occasional unsuspecting shopkeeper would pull out a rubber stamp from behind the counter.
Today, you still need at least two stamps per day to prove you’ve completed the required 100 kilometers for the Compostela certificate at the journey’s end.
Stamping our Camino passports Ringing the bell and getting a stamp Caimino Trail
History seemed to rise beneath our feet as we crossed the town’s remarkable Roman and medieval bridge. Parts of it date back to the 1st century, and its ancient stones still carry pilgrims north along the Camino after all these years.
Fields glowed with spring green, dotted with wild lilies swaying in the breeze. By midday, we reached a shaded stream where Backroads had arranged a picnic spread.
Shoes came off quickly, and a few brave souls plunged their tired feet into the icy water—a shocking but oh-so-refreshing reward.
Roman bridge from 1st century Bom Camino Wild lilies on the Camino Trail Which way do we go? Backroads lunch streamside lunch spread
After our picnic lunch, we picked up the trail again—this time along the 18th stage of the Caminho Português.
The path carried us through shaded forests and quiet rural villages and ended at the Pousada Viana do Castelo, a historic building which had been beautifully renovated in 1979.
Pousada Viana do Castelo
We were then shuttled to our home for the next two nights: Hotel Pousada Viana do Castelo, perched high above the town, with sweeping views of the Lima River and the surrounding mountains.
It was the kind of place where you couldn’t resist pausing to soak it all in.
Santa Luzia & Fado Nights
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast and a bit of instruction from our guides, we shuttled to the Trilho dos Canos de Água trailhead, close to the Romanesque-Byzantine-inspired Basilica de Santa Luzia.
We followed an old water trail from the mountain mines above the city of Viana do Castelo down to its historic center. The path was quiet, shaded and full of those small, unexpected details that make the Camino feel timeless.
We stopped for lunch at a private estate perched on a hillside overlooking the ocean. Before we sat down to eat, the current resident gave us a tour of the impressive grounds, the family's private chapel, and pointed out several of the area's famous landmarks. The estate had been passed down through generations after a king gifted it to an ancestor of the current family in recognition of his role in capturing a castle during a war.
Pretty cool gift.
It happened to be my cousin’s birthday, so a special lunch had been prearranged and served inside an old stone outbuilding on the property.
That evening, we dined at Amalia, a family-run restaurant, with live Fado music filling the room.
Between the food, the music, and my cousin being serenaded again for her birthday, it felt like Portugal was singing us onward.
Fado Serenade Amalia Restaurant
As the sun set on our final evening in Portugal, it was hard to believe how much we had already experienced in just a few days. From medieval villages and vineyards to coastal trails, historic estates, and unforgettable meals, the Portuguese Camino had already exceeded every expectation.
But the journey was only half over.
To be continued in Part 2, as our Camino leads us across the border into Spain, to the breathtaking Ons Islands, and ultimately to Santiago de Compostela—where, for centuries, pilgrims have arrived with sore feet, full hearts, and stories of their own.
See you somewhere delicious.
Stamped by Tracey
