San Diego: Croissants, Cabrillo & California Cool
- Jul 5
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 26
A week of wandering San Diego—from baby seals and Balboa Park to unforgettable meals.
I landed in San Diego, dropped my bags, and headed straight to La Jolla with my son Andrew.
The Children’s Pool was buzzing—hundreds of people, dozens of pelicans, barking seals… and, let’s be honest, the unmistakable aroma of decades of bird poop.
Children's Pool La Jolla California Tracey and Andrew La Jolla Bird Rock at Children's Pools La Jolla
But somehow that’s all part of the charm.
The little seal pups were happily bobbing in the surf while tourists lined the seawall hoping for the perfect photo. It reminded me that some of the best travel moments aren’t polished—they’re a little wild, a little smelly, and completely unforgettable.
California, I’m ready…
The next morning I set out to explore Balboa Park.
Calling it a park almost feels misleading. Spread across 1,200 acres in the heart of San Diego, it feels more like an outdoor museum where Spanish Colonial architecture, lush gardens, museums, performers, and history all coexist. Originally built for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, it’s the kind of place where you can wander for hours and still feel like you’ve barely scratched the surface.
The minute I stepped out of my car, organ music filled the air. Curious, I followed the sound until I reached the Spreckels Organ Pavilion. A couple was exchanging vows beneath its ornate arches while the music echoed across the plaza. My first thought was, How incredible to have one of the world’s largest outdoor pipe organs providing the soundtrack to your wedding. It felt as though someone had arranged a private concert just for them.
Spreckels Organ Pavillion Balboa Park Spreckels stage Balboa Park San Diego
From there, I wandered into the Japanese Friendship Garden, where the entire mood shifts.
Suddenly everything becomes quieter and more intentional. Koi ponds filled with surprisingly plump fish, bamboo, winding paths, and hidden corners invite you to slow down.
Japanese Friendship Garden Balboa Park Giant koi in the Japanese Gardens Balboa Park Ornate door in Japanese Gardens
While trying to find the exit (yes…I somehow managed to get lost), I stumbled upon a bronze statue of Kannon Bosatsu, the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion. Dating back to 1735, she has an incredible history, but what caught my attention was something far more personal. According to the plaque, she was dedicated to the garden on my birthday.
The Goddess of Mercy and Compassion Tracey with the statue of Kannon Bosatsu
I don’t believe in accidents.
Somehow I knew I was supposed to find her.
The San Diego Museum of Art happened to be celebrating its 100th anniversary with a special exhibition called Forging a Legacy. There were works spanning centuries, but my favorite was the room dedicated to Toulouse-Lautrec. His colorful posters captured the cafés and cabarets of Paris so vividly that you almost expected music to start playing.
Entry of The San Diego Museum of Art Toulouse-Lautrec art
While Toulouse-Lautrec was the artist I expected to love, it was a contemporary piece called Rescue by artist Nick Cave that completely stole my attention.
Rescue by Nick Cave in the Museum
At first, it was the French bulldog perched in a colorful barrel chair that drew me in (anyone who knows me understands why). But the longer I stood there, the more details revealed themselves. Vintage whiskey decanters had been transformed into brilliantly colored birds, discarded objects found new life, and strands of beads cascaded through the sculpture like tangled vines. It felt whimsical, joyful, and wonderfully unexpected.
It’s one of those rare pieces of art that made me think, I could actually live with this. If I had the room—and I’m guessing a very healthy art budget—it would already be sitting in my house.
Outside, the arboretum felt like another museum entirely—this one alive. Towering palms, exotic succulents, flowering trees, and plants from around the world seemed to compete for attention.
Every path seemed to reveal another postcard view until I reached the California Building, its blue-and-gold tiled dome rising above the trees like a mosaic crown. As if on cue, the bells from nearby St. Francis Chapel began ringing across the plaza.
By the time I left, I realized I’d barely scratched the surface. Between the museums, gardens, performances, and the world-famous San Diego Zoo, Balboa Park easily deserves an entire day—if not two.
Tuesday started the best possible way—with coffee and pastries from Wayfarer Bakery in Bird Rock.
Andrew and I split a jalapeño-cheddar croissant and a pistachio-strawberry croissant, both so good they justified every calorie. The bakery offers little more than outdoor benches, but somehow that only adds to its charm.
Wayfarer Bakery Pacific Beach California Yummy croissants Wayfarer Bakery
Determined to work off breakfast, I wandered down…and then farther down…the steep hills surrounding my Airbnb. California has always had a way of making neighborhoods feel like botanical gardens. Bougainvillea spilled over fences, Birds of Paradise bloomed on nearly every corner, and flowering trees seemed determined to outshine one another.
We spent the afternoon out on Point Loma, where Cabrillo National Monument feels like the edge of California. The two-mile coastal hiking trail constantly rewards you with a different view—the Pacific stretching endlessly west, Coronado curving into the distance, and the Navy base tucked quietly below, a reminder that this spectacular coastline still plays an important role today.
Visitor Center Point Loma Hiking trail Point Loma View from hiking trail Point Loma
Somewhere along the trail, a red-tailed hawk sat on a cement wall watching our every move.
As we reached one overlook, a naval ship carrying helicopters slowly departed the harbor while military planes and helicopters crisscrossed overhead. Standing there watching it all unfold, I couldn’t help but smile.
Red tailed hawk Point Loma trail. View of San Diego from Point Loma trail
We were in good hands.
From there we climbed to the Old Point Loma Lighthouse, a modest white building that feels frozen in time. Inside, period furnishings and mannequins recreate what life must have been like for the families who once lived in this isolated outpost overlooking the Pacific.
Andrew at Old Point Loma Lighthouse Point Loma San Diego
Before leaving, I stopped beside the towering statue of Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo. Standing watch over the entrance to San Diego Bay, he still feels like the guardian of the city nearly five centuries after first arriving here.
After successfully working off our croissant calories at Cabrillo National Monument, we rewarded ourselves that evening with dinner at Herb & Wood in downtown San Diego—and what a reward it was.
The restaurant strikes that perfect balance between California cool and warm sophistication. The moment you walk through the door, you’re greeted by a life-size black unicorn with a gold horn, setting the tone for a dining experience that’s anything but ordinary. Chic artwork fills the walls while dramatic chandeliers hang from soaring ceilings, creating a space that’s as memorable as the food.
Sign of Herb & Wood Restaurant San Diego Unicorn greeter at Herb & Wood Interior Herb & Wood Sant Diego
The craft cocktail menu reads more like a science experiment than a bar menu, with concoctions featuring ingredients like goat cheese-washed vodka and blackberry beet cordial. Goat cheese…washed vodka? I still have questions. Whatever they’re doing behind that bar, it’s working.
The menu practically begs you to share, so we happily obliged. We started with paper-thin slices of hamachi draped in schug sauce that was quite literally plate-lickable, followed by colossal shrimp nestled over French lentils and pistachio purée.
Craft cocktail Herb & Wood San Diego Prawn appetizer Herb & Wood San Diego Hamachi appetizer Herb & Wood San Diego
Honestly, I could have stopped there.
But I was dining with Andrew and one of his good friends.
Men = eat.
So…I rallied.
I ordered the branzino, but not the version I expected. Instead of a traditional fillet, it arrived cut into bite-sized pieces, wrapped in prosciutto, and roasted until the salty crispness of the prosciutto perfectly complemented the delicate fish. It was inventive without feeling fussy.
The guys tackled the Ibérico pork and oxtail gnocchi with equal enthusiasm.
Ibérico pork Herb & Wood San Diego Branzino Herb & Wood San Diego Dessert Herb & Wood San Diego
Only after dinner did I learn that Herb & Wood is the creation of Top Chef alum Brian Malarkey.
Suddenly, the imaginative menu, flawless execution, and effortless cool all made perfect sense.
If you’re visiting San Diego and only have time for one memorable dinner, put Herb & Wood at the top of your list.
If I lived in San Diego, Herb & Wood would be one of those restaurants I’d happily return to again and again.
If your San Diego itinerary allows, carve out a few hours to wander through the Village of La Jolla. It’s one of those places that’s best explored without a plan. Boutique shopping, art galleries, sidewalk cafés, oceanfront restaurants, and even the country’s oldest independently owned bookstore – Warwicks – all sit within a few walkable blocks.
I stopped for lunch at George’s at the Cove, where the outdoor terrace overlooks the Pacific. I ordered the blackened ahi tuna sandwich, and it tasted as though it had been pulled from the ocean just below us moments earlier. Fresh, simple, and exactly the kind of lunch you hope for when you’re by the sea.
George's at the Cove La Jolla Blackened tuna sandwich at George's View of the Pacific from George's
As much as I loved San Diego, another chapter of the California coast was calling.
Next stop: Santa Monica.
See you somewhere delicious.
STAMPED BY TRACEY
