New York: Two Forks and a Homecoming
- Sep 19, 2025
- 7 min read
Updated: Jul 28
I wasn't just going to New York for a wedding.
I was going home.
My cousin was getting married at her future in-laws' home in Setauket over Labor Day weekend - a beautiful reason to return to Long Island, although the timing immediately had me picturing holiday crowds and a Long Island Expressway traffic jam stretching roughly to Florida.
Instead, I got lucky.
I flew directly into Long Island MacArthur Airport on Avelo Airlines, my first time trying the no-frills carrier. The flight was easy, hurricane season graciously took the week off, and New York welcomed me with dreamy temperatures in the mid-70s.
For the wedding weekend, I checked into Danfords Hotel & Marina in Port Jefferson. Sitting right on the harbor beside the ferry dock, it had the classic East Coast setting I love: boats bobbing in the water, restaurants within walking distance, and just enough activity to make wandering worthwhile.
Port Jeff Ferry Danfors Hotel & Marina
I was sharing a room with the mother of the bride, who understandably had a long list of wedding responsibilities. That left me with an entirely different assignment: explore Port Jefferson.
The last time I had been there, I remember struggling to find a decent cup of coffee. Clearly, Port Jeff had been busy in my absence. The village was now filled with cafés, restaurants, boutiques, and plenty of reasons to linger.
My first discovery was Locals Café, directly across from the hotel. Its menu included hearty egg dishes, creative sandwiches, matcha lattes, and an olive oil zucchini muffin so good that I returned three times. At that point, I was no longer visiting. I was practically a regular.
The boutiques were equally tempting, with much more fashion-forward merchandise than I expected. Naturally, a couple of new pieces found their way into my suitcase.
I consider that supporting the local economy.
Being back in the Northeast also meant one thing: I needed a lobster roll. The Steam Room, a casual waterfront spot overlooking the harbor, delivered an overstuffed version that was gloriously messy and completely worth it.
My 87-year-old aunt was in town for the celebration and, because she still walks every day, we strolled to dinner at Old Fields Restaurant. It’s a lively steakhouse with a warm neighborhood feel, and my salad topped with perfectly cooked skirt steak hit the spot.
Lobster roll Streets of Port Jefferson NY Steak and salad at Old Fields Restaurant
The following morning, I met her at Joey Z’s, where the menu seemed to include every imaginable breakfast combination—but the crepes were the real temptation. I ordered one, enjoyed every bite, and then remembered I had a rehearsal-dinner dress to fit into.
Time to walk.
Port Jefferson’s hillside neighborhoods proved to be the perfect solution. I wandered past beautiful homes perched above the harbor, climbing streets steep enough to count as exercise while happily admiring the houses and water views.
Given my love of real estate, this was hardly a hardship.
Along the way, I stumbled upon the Port Jefferson Village Center, a beautifully restored waterfront building featuring an exhibit by local artists. It was one of those unexpected travel discoveries that makes an aimless walk worthwhile.
That evening, the rehearsal dinner was held at The Fifth Season, where the menu leaned reassuringly classic: Caesar salad, filet mignon, mashed potatoes, and spinach. No reinvention necessary—just comfort food done exceptionally well.
The wedding itself unfolded beautifully. Surrounded by family and friends at the Setauket home, the bride and groom exchanged vows beneath a sky that eventually produced the most spectacular sunset.
I’m not sure whether a wedding sunset officially guarantees a happy marriage, but it certainly felt like a very good sign.
The First Fork: North Fork Wine Country
With the wedding festivities complete, it was time to head east - and choose the first of Long Island's two famous forks.
Two of my besties had just purchased a house on the sound in Southold and reported having incredible sunsets, so I was excited to see their new digs. We hopped in their 1963 black Lincoln convertible and headed out to the vineyards.
Suhru & Lieb Vineyards - the founding family - Lieb- were past friends of mine, and I was so excited to see how their vineyard had grown and changed through the years. They sold in 2012, and it’s now under the tutelage of the group led by longtime winemaker Russell Hearn.
My favorite: 2024 Estate Chardonnay
Suhru & Lieb Vineyards Suhru & Lieb Vineyards
Croteaux Vineyards - it was the perfect day for rosé, and we had landed in the perfect spot. Croteaux Vineyards is the only vineyard in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to rosé wines. The tasting yard is a barn setting with tables in a courtyard and in the vineyard. Live music was playing, and flights were brought out on perfectly labeled trays of what we were sipping.
My favorite: 2024 ‘Jolie’ Cab Franc
Croteaux Vineyards Croteaux Vineyards Croteaux Vineyards rose flight
Our final stop was Sparkling Pointe. The venue was hosting the final “Fizz & Fry” of the season, and my friends had missed each event over the summer, so they were excited to experience it finally.
It was billed as Fried Foods + Sparkling Wines = an Iconic Pairing!
Food was provided by Braun Seafood - a staple on the North Fork. We opted for the 4-piece bucket of Wings/Drumsticks, Fried Shrimp, French fries, and several glasses of Fizz by the Glass.
My favorite: Cuvee Canaval Rose
Friends enjoying an evening at Sparkling Pointe Sparkling Pointe Vineyard
It’s a beautiful spot to roam the vineyards while you sip sparkling wine and, of course, take advantage of some great photo ops.
We ended our perfect day back on the rooftop deck of my friend's house to experience yet another incredible sunset.
The next day was all about boats and exploring. We stopped at local farm stands and wandered Greenport, where we had lunch at Ellen’s on Front. Their “cuppa chowda & half sandwich” was perfect alongside oyster sliders. The chef was recently named Best of the North Fork 2025 — well deserved!
Afterward, we hit the water, cruising along the coast past Southampton and even spotting my old stomping grounds near the National Golf Links. The sea breeze, sunshine, and nostalgia made for the perfect afternoon.
The Second Fork: Back to the Hamptons
Day seven brought us to the South Fork, starting with a ferry from Greenport to Shelter Island and onto Sag Harbor. Early fall is the perfect time to be here — quieter than summer, yet still vibrant.
First stop: LT Burger, back in action and just as good as I remembered. The Au Poivre burger with sweet potato fries was a standout.
LT Burger Sag Harbor NY LT Burger
From there, it was time for more wine tasting with girlfriends at Channing Daughters. I’ve always loved this spot for its eclectic wines and inviting outdoor space, and it didn’t disappoint.
Channing Daughters Vineyard Bridgehampton NY Red wine flight at Channing Daughters Bridgehampton NY
Dinner took us into Bridgehampton to Elaia Estiatorio, a Greek favorite of mine. Their salads and mezze plates are bright, fresh, and delicious.
The next morning, my hostess (one of my BFFs) whipped up a gorgeous breakfast. Afterward, we walked Sammy’s Beach, a place that holds special meaning for me. It was once the favorite walk of my two French bulldogs when I lived nearby, and being there again was grounding. This time, my friend’s dog, Dutch, tagged along and happily splashed in the bay.
Later that day we headed to Amagansett Beach, where we spotted a pod of whales swimming close to shore. To say it was magical would be an understatement.
Manhattan and a Promise Kept
Eventually, it was time to say goodbye to the Hamptons and head into Manhattan.
We had plans for lunch at Bergdorf Goodman, followed by the most important reason for my return: fulfilling my mother’s final wish and bringing her ashes back to New York, the city she had called home for more than 30 years.
But first, priorities.
We stopped at Hampton Coffee Company for my favorite hazelnut coffee and a piece of crumb cake before setting out for the Long Island Expressway. It was the middle of the week, after the summer season, and I was cautiously optimistic that the traffic gods might show us mercy.
The traffic did.
The road did not.
County Road 39 had been prepared for repaving, and somewhere along the way we hit a pothole hard enough to blow out two tires.
Not one.
Two.
For a moment, our carefully planned Manhattan day appeared to be unraveling beside a Southampton gas station. Then we discovered the modern miracle of a mobile tire-replacement van.
Two tires were located, ordered, delivered, and installed while we sat drinking coffee and eating crumb cake.
Honestly, as travel disasters go, it could have been worse.
Within an hour, we were back on the road and headed toward the city.
Walking into BG Restaurant at Bergdorf Goodman felt comfortingly familiar. It had been one of my mother’s and my favorite places for a girls’ lunch, and three of my closest friends joined me there to celebrate her.
With Central Park visible beyond the windows, I ordered a bottle of champagne.
We raised our glasses not in sadness, but to the remarkable woman we had come to honor—someone who loved New York, loved a beautiful lunch, and would have thoroughly approved of the setting.
We may also have left a tiny bit of her behind at Bergdorf’s before continuing to Central Park.
I could practically hear her laughing.
Later, surrounded by the city she had loved for so many years, I kept the promise I had made and returned her to New York.
Some goodbyes never feel complete. But standing there, I felt a sense of peace in knowing that she was exactly where she had asked to be.
New York, however, had one more surprise waiting for me.
That evening, we attended the premiere of Looking Through Water, starring Michael Douglas.
A friend was one of the film’s producers, so we were treated not only to the screening but also to a Q&A with Michael, his son Cameron, and other members of the cast.
Looking Through Water Michael Douglas
It was an unexpectedly glamorous finale to a trip that had included a family wedding, vineyard afternoons, ferry rides, old friends, whale sightings, two ruined tires, and one deeply personal promise fulfilled.
Nine days earlier, I had arrived in New York saying I was going home.
By the time I left, I understood that home wasn’t just one house or one town.
It was Port Jefferson with my aunt, sunsets with old friends, the beaches where I once walked my Frenchies, lunch at Bergdorf’s, and a piece of my mother forever resting in the city she loved.
New York had given me celebration, memory, laughter, and closure—all in one beautifully unpredictable trip.
And waiting for me at my other home was Lola.
After everything, there was nowhere else I wanted to be.
See you somewhere delicious.
Stamped by Tracey
