Copenhagen: 36 Hours of Rosé, Rooftops & Retail Therapy

After a week hiking Norway’s breathtaking fjords, I spent 36 delicious hours in Copenhagen discovering rooftop lunches, hidden wine bars, world-class restaurants, shopping, and a city with an unexpected sense of humor.

It was my third visit, so I skipped the museums, ignored most of the monuments, and devoted myself entirely to shopping, eating, and wandering beautiful streets.

Some cities are meant to be studied. Copenhagen, in my opinion, is meant to be savored.

Day One — Frederiksstaden + Nyhavn + HOST

After landing and shaking off our Norway hiking legs, we settled into Copenhagen ready for 36 hours of pure indulgence.

We checked into Babette Guldsmeden, which was not my original pick — I had been eyeing Admiral Hotel — but group travel is a democracy until one strong personality quietly becomes parliament. Babette had a Kimpton-ish boutique vibe: cozy, stylish, a little quirky, with a rooftop lounge, steam room, and a bathtub being marketed as a cold plunge. Let’s just say the Danes, and I may have different standards for “plunge.”

Still, the location worked beautifully. Tucked into Frederiksstaden near Amalienborg Palace, it put us within walking distance of almost everything we wanted to do — which, at this point in the trip, was mostly eat, shop, sip, repeat.

Arriving in the late afternoon, we dropped our bags and headed straight to Nyhavn. The waterfront was glowing at sunset, packed with tourists and locals nursing beers and soaking up the perfect weather. Every building looked like it had been painted specifically for Instagram… decades before Instagram existed.

On the walk back, we stumbled into Nebbiolo, a tiny wine bar with an Italian‑leaning list — except there is no list. You tell them what you like, they choose for you, and you get a taste before committing. Our server nailed all five of us.

Five women. Five different palates. Five perfect pours. Impressive.

Dinner was at HOST, the trendy spot known for modern New Nordic cuisine and its warm, hygge‑filled interior.

They offer a three‑ or five‑course tasting menu with wine pairings — my favorite kind of dinner because I love to taste. Most of us chose the three‑course, though one from my Post-Hike Posse went big with the five. The presentation was beautiful, and every dish was thoughtful and delicious.

Marks out of ten? TEN. No notes.

Day Two — Breakfast, Tivoli, Illum, and One Last Feast

Morning arrived quickly, and with it a new day to explore — and eat, of course.

Breakfast at the hotel was a healthy buffet — and honestly, foreign countries just get breakfast right.

Why is European yogurt always better? Why does fruit taste like actual fruit?

I have questions.

Time to walk it off before our next meal. I did mention we were here to shop and eat. The weather was overcast but pleasant, perfect for wandering Frederiksstaden’s historic streets.

I insisted on showing the newbies Tivoli Gardens, the second‑oldest amusement park in the world and the one said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Disneyland. Lush gardens, whimsical architecture — probably the most cultural thing we accomplished all day… before returning to our regularly scheduled eating.

Copenhagen does serious beauty very well — bronze statues, grand squares, elegant old facades, the whole European postcard situation.

But what I loved even more was the city’s sneaky sense of humor. One minute you’re admiring a regal sculpture, the next you’re staring at a café sign announcing, “I’ll never drink again. Oh look, Fireball!!!” Or a gallery window featuring fake Cocaine, Murder King, and a legal battle with Lego.

Subtle? Not exactly.

Memorable? Completely.

It was a nice little reminder that Copenhagen may be polished, but it is not precious.

We made our way down Strøget, Copenhagen’s famous shopping street lined with everything from high‑end designers to tourist shops. We let ourselves be tourists for a few stops, but my real goal was Illum, Copenhagen’s premier high‑end department store. It’s been around since 1891 — impressive — and yes, it has a rooftop restaurant.

Naturally, I was already thinking about lunch.

Cousin Deb and I were ready to make a day of it, and Illum did not disappoint. We tried on pieces from local and international designers we never see in the States.

Then tragedy struck.

I found the perfect pair of German Closed jeans.

Perfect fit.

Perfect wash.

Wrong size.

They couldn’t order them.

I briefly considered moving to Denmark.

Remember all that hiking in Norway? We undid most of it by lunchtime. 😂

Rooftop? Absolutley

Rose. Of course.

Oysters from France? Make it a dozen. Maybe two!

Crab and shrimp cakes with remoulade sauce? When does my diet start…

We spent the afternoon meandering through Copenhagen’s quaint streets, but by evening we were all ready for our own beds. The next day we’d all be heading home.

For our final night, we managed to snag a reservation at Restaurant BARR, set on the waterfront in the historic warehouse space that was once home to the legendary Noma. Created by members of the original Noma team, BARR trades experimental fine dining for elevated Nordic comfort food — and somehow makes Wiener schnitzel feel like a revelation.

We ordered like women who had hiked Norway and felt we had earned the entire menu. Danish meatballs, schnitzel, fish, sauces, sides — if it sounded good, it landed on the table.

Our waiter had been part of the Noma/BARR world from the beginning and knew every dish with the confidence of someone who has explained schnitzel to thousands of Americans. One of the women in our Post-Hike Posse recognized him from a Noma dinner more than ten years earlier and actually pulled up photos of him, her husband, and the dishes they ate that night.

That is elite photo organization.

As for him? Not someone you’d easily forget.

We ended the night at Ruby’s, a cool cocktail bar tucked inside an old townhouse from 1740. I ordered the Crimson Queen, a twist on a Negroni. The cutest detail? The glasses — tiny, charming things called “Ponies.”

Naturally, I immediately searched Amazon for pony glasses.

By the time we left Ruby’s — pony glasses, clever cocktails, and plenty of laughter — we were the best kind of tired. Not hiking tired. Copenhagen tired. The kind that comes from walking beautiful streets, eating too well, shopping with purpose, and pretending one more glass of wine is simply part of the cultural experience.

Morning meant flights, routines, and real life waiting back home. But for 36 hours, we let Copenhagen be exactly what we needed after Norway: stylish, delicious, walkable, witty, and just indulgent enough.

Bergen gave us charm.

Norway gave us drama.

Copenhagen gave us oysters, shopping, and pony glasses.

See you somewhere delicious.

STAMPED BY TRACEY